Writeup of the Port Cocktail Competition at Saloon Davis featuring Croft
By Manny Gonzales
One Shaken and One Stirred at Saloon in Davis Square
When you think of the historic Douro you often think of the wide river that spans throughout the Iberian Peninsula or perhaps the Portuguese rabelos that transport large oak vats downstream to be bottled. Rarely does the image of shakers being flung behind a classic oak bar come to mind. That bar is the iconic Saloon in Davis Square, Somerville MA and those shakers were handled by some of Boston’s best bartenders competing using the historic port house Croft as the base ingredient.
A word from our sponsor...Croft Port
Since 1588 Croft has maintained its family run status. Today it is the oldest family run producer in the Duoro. Croft is part of the largest partnership of family run port houses in Portugal as well: The Fladgate Partnership. The three houses Croft, Fonseca and Taylor Fladgate could not have more contrasting styles. Croft which is delicate, subtle and lingering while Fonseca is fruitier, broader and bolder and Taylor Fladgate is linear, focused and brite. Each house is made by David Guimaraen whose family has been the principle wine making family for Fonseca since 1844. Croft is not only the oldest family run port house in history, it is also credited for creating the first vintage port in history in 1781.
Our focus for the event? The Croft Reserve Tawny Port which is taking port to the next plateau: the cocktail. With the sweet spiced box aromas of an older tawny port mingled with some of the riper, chocolatey fruits of a ruby port, Croft balances sweet, spice, bitter and structure which makes this the perfect ingredient for cocktails.
Now back to the action...
Judgement-Free Zone?
The concept was simple; each competing bartender must use at least 1 ounce of Croft Reserve Tawny Port in the cocktails. But there was a catch: you must make 2 cocktails, one stirred cocktail (spirit based i.e. no citrus) and one shaken (your typical sour cocktail using atypical ingredients). Contestants were being judged on presentation (how you make the drink), originality, appearance, flavor and because Croft produces a fortified wine of delicate nuances the balance of the cocktail will also be judged.
WITH HONORABLE MENTION
Three great bartenders ahead of their game
Thomas Hardy from Yvonne’s mixing a hibiscus infused reposado tequila balances out the sweetness of the port offering some floral raspberry notes and a rich viscosity.
Smoke Shack’s Jordon McCusker and his “Bodenheim Revival” takes a more classic approach with its simply delicious and balanced flavors.
Paulo Pereira, GM and Beverage mind of Brass Union balances mescal, port and finishes with a port scented foam for his “Arya.”
THE FINAL COUNT DOWN
THIRD PLACE
Our third place winner was Saloon’s own Pete Polselli. His use of Suze finished with fennel salt in "The Eye of the Beholder" elevated the aromatics of the tawny port and his “Late Entry” cocktail, named because it was created about 30 minutes before the event, showed balance, texture and subtlety.
SECOND PLACE
Second place was Andrea Pentabona from Ken Oringer’s Uni at the Eliot Hotel. Her "Rain Dog" cocktail had an awesomely funky edge with its almost sake finish, but her tiki drink “One Bullet Two Rabbits” was by far one of the best cocktails of the night. The port mingled well with her silver and aged rums and the orgeat balanced the raisin notes of the port.
FIRST PLACE
And finally, Ramona Pettygrave Shah’s "Traces to Nowhere" was one of the best uses of glassware (vintage tea cups) which complimented the Lasang tea infused Brennivin. The Croft relaxed the bitterness of the tea and helped release its subtle aromatics. Her "Miramar Sour" had a simplicity that resonated the great flavors of Burgundy: complex, subtle and oh so good.
Port's Balance of Power: Structure, Mid-palate, and Finish
When you think of the historic Douro your mind may still drift to those rabelos drifting down river holding casks of port, or old British men in tweed, smoking sweetly fragrant pipe tobacco...but don’t forget the innovation that is intrinsic with these three great port houses.
Once upon a time vintage port was an innovation as was the more affordable Late Bottle Vintage. What is the next evolution of great port? Perhaps it is the understanding that history is written by young dreamers who often change how we look at ourselves while the “purists” turn their heads, roll their eyes and stand still. These six “dreamers” have moved forward taking their craft and applying it to history thereby making it their own…or maybe that’s just the drinks talking.