Don't Be Bitter About Amaro
Bitter has a bad connotation in our American society. We often hear the term used about someone harboring resentment or ill will. A bitter drinker conjures up a lonely, grumpy soul in the corner of the bar.
Not anymore.
Bitter drinkers, we get it, and want to spread the love of Amaro, or at the very least a bit of knowledge about this interesting spirits genre with you. Amaro – bitter in Italian – is a term for these liqueurs. For example, Fernet Branca, the darling of the shift drink for quite a while, may be one you’ve tried before. Join us as we look at Amaro below.
HISTORY OF AMARO
For centuries, various cultures have been playing with herbal liqueurs. The Moors first distilled brandy during their occupation of Southern Spain. After which, the monasteries began adding various herbal components to create remedies. Before that, some note the Greeks and Romans were adding honey, spices and more to orzo and to wine to help with digestion.
Did you know Jägermeister is an Amaro? Well, it’s a German bitter liqueur, so yes, it can be considered an Amaro. For the most part, we can look at Amari as under the larger liqueur umbrella. The term liqueur – from the Latin word liquifacere which means melt or dissolve – dates back to the Middle Ages when distillers found that nearly anything could be dissolved if it was in fact, distilled.
When it comes to understanding how these liqueurs are made and consumed, it can be more a matter of cultural tradition than a categorization or classification. Amari also encompass the “German tradition of bitter liqueurs, the French tradition of amers, the Mexican fernet,” according to Brad Thomas Parker in a recent interview with the NY Times on his new book, Amaro.
In other words, there’s no easy guideline or geo-political governance when it comes to classifying or segmenting Amari. It’s about as clear as the tipple of Fernet in your glass. There are a few common themes, however:
What is Amaro and How is Amaro Made?
Amari are made via maceration and/or distillation using seeds, spices, citrus, botanicals, flowers, barks and more. They are rested for a period of time, which varies depending on the substance, so that the flavors can meld. Some of the more common bittering agents include wormwood, angelica root, cinchona bark, gentian root.
Stomach Awareness
Yes, Amaro’s about your gut. Many put Amaro firmly in the digestif category because of their bitter medicinal components – these help digestion. Herbal, mint, and root flavors were meant to counteract discomfort after a large meal.
Others argue that some Amari – like the bitter orange based ones in varying hues of reds and oranges (think Campari) can also and should also be enjoyed as apertifs.
AMARI BITTERNESS
Yes, they’re bitter. This flavor is one we often have an aversion to as children. It’s part of the 5 Taste Sensations: Sweet, Salty, Sour, Umami and Bitter. Children have a stronger distaste for bitter that fades as we grow. Some cultures embrace bitter earlier on, yes, like the Italians, which is why they have such a fondness for the Amaro category. In some ways, it’s an acquired taste although we all know that one person who’s first sip of Fernet had them jumping on the bitter bandwagon.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO ENJOY AMARO?
At the risk for winning the Captain Obvious title: Amari are for drinking. They are not to be confused with Bitters: those small but effective non-potable flavor powerhouses we dash onto cocktails and such to add depth and character.
Amari are often drunk neat, sometimes chilled, with a slice of orange on the side. But, as you may know if you ever stuck a _ under your nose, they add interesting layers to your cocktails. More and more cocktail joints offer drinks with an Amaro as part of the mix to get your bitter journey started. For instance, Aurora Providence’s Whiskey Business uses Fernet Branca in boozy stirred concoction and the Slow Rhode offers a shaken citrus bourbon baby using Meletti Amaro.
Eating Amaro
We’re not kidding. You can have your Amaro and eat it, too. For instance, Cure in Pittsburgh, PA, offers an olive salami cured with Fernet Branca.
Buying Amaro
Not surprisingly, more and more Amari are making their way to the states. It used to be you could only find a few if you were lucky. Dale DeGroff’s first book over 15 years ago notes the dearth of availability of Amari. There are still hundreds in Italy to be discovered, but a walk to your favorite craft spirts purveyor will likely show more than just a couple Amari on the shelves.
Some of our favorites (yes, we happen to represent them):
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Tempus Fugit Gran Classico
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Luxardo Fernet
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Luxardo Bitter Liqueur
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St George Bruto Americano
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Fernet Branca
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Brancamenta
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Granier Mon Pastis
Next time you want to challenge your taste sensations, or your favorite mixologist, we hope you’ll go for Amaro. Get bitter.